Narmada Parikrama: Embarking on the Sacred Journey

Narmada Parikrama is a sacred pilgrimage that involves circumambulating (Parikrama) the holy Narmada River, one of India's seven holy rivers. This arduous journey covers a distance of approximately 2,600 kilometers, tracing the river's course from its source at Amarkantak in Madhya Pradesh to its mouth in the Arabian Sea in Gujarat, and back along the opposite bank. The Parikrama is not just a physical journey, but a profound spiritual odyssey that tests the faith, endurance, and devotion of the pilgrims.

Omkareshwar Temple 

Our group embarked on this sacred journey by roadway, traveling by car to explore the profound spiritual landscape surrounding the Narmada River. Narmada Parikrama is typically undertaken on foot, though some modern pilgrims may use bicycles or other means of transport. The journey can take anywhere from a few months to over a year, depending on the pilgrim's pace and the chosen route. Traditionally, the Parikrama starts from Amarkantak, the river's source, and follows the south bank to the mouth at Bharuch, then returns along the north bank 

Day 1: 4th January 2023

The journey began on the morning of January 4th, 2023, as we (a group of 6) set off for the revered Narmada Parikrama, a pilgrimage encircling the sacred Narmada River. We started at 9:00 AM, filled with anticipation for the spiritual journey ahead.

Our first significant stop was for lunch at 3:00 PM. By then, the journey had already started to etch memories into our minds. We dined at the Sai Krupa Hotel, refueling both body and spirit for the adventures to come.

Rajhans Hotel

As the sun began its descent, we reached the border between Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra around 6:00 PM, symbolizing a significant milestone in our pilgrimage. A quick chai break at Rajhans Hotel in Madhya Pradesh gave us a moment to savor the local flavors and recharge.

By 9:00 PM, we arrived at the sacred Omkareshwar Mandir, a revered Jyotirlinga shrine. The evenings were particularly chilly, especially near riverbanks and in hilly areas, requiring warm clothing. This pleasant climate added to the overall experience, making our spiritual journey comfortable and enjoyable. Located on an island shaped like the Hindu symbol 'Om', Omkareshwar is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, representing the essence of Lord Shiva. The temple’s unique location on the confluence of the Narmada and Kaveri rivers makes it a focal point of spiritual energy. Legends say that King Mandhata of the Ikshvaku clan prayed to Shiva here until the Lord manifested as a Jyotirlinga. Omkareshwar Temple’s architecture is a blend of North Indian and South Indian styles, reflecting the cultural amalgamation of the region. The temple complex includes several other shrines, each with its own significance, adding to the spiritual ambiance of the place. The serene setting of the island, coupled with the spiritual vibrations of the Jyotirlinga, makes Omkareshwar a pivotal stop in the Narmada Parikrama, providing pilgrims with a profound sense of connection to the divine. The evening darshan filled us with a profound sense of peace and devotion.

Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga

Dinner followed at the nearby Guru Kripa, a humble yet comforting end to our day's travel. The simplicity of the meal after the divine experience at Omkareshwar was grounding, providing a perfect closure to our spiritually enriched day.

Our day concluded with a stay at the Mansarovar Hotel, where we rested, reflecting on the day's spiritual encounters and preparing for the journey ahead. Mansarovar Hotel, though modest, provided a comforting respite.

Day 2: 5th January 2023

The next day began early at 7:30 AM with a visit to the Mamaleshwar Mandir. The Mamaleshwar Mandir, also known as Amareshwar Temple, is one of the holiest sites along the Narmada River and a significant part of the Omkareshwar temple complex. This ancient temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is known for its intricate carvings and serene atmosphere. The morning pooja and snan (holy bath) in the Narmada were serene, offering a moment of deep spiritual connection. According to legend, those who bathe in the Narmada at this spot and offer prayers at the Mamaleshwar Mandir are blessed with the divine grace of Lord Shiva, making it an essential ritual for pilgrims. The weather during this leg of our journey was quite pleasant. The mornings were cool, with temperatures around 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F), providing a comfortable atmosphere for early morning rituals and travel.

Mamaleshwar Temple

At 10:00 AM, we headed towards Ravarkhedi, reaching Bajirao Peshwa's samadhi (memorial) by 11:00 AM. Bajirao Peshwa, the great Maratha general, is celebrated for his military genius and expansion of the Maratha Empire. His memorial at Ravarkhedi is a tribute to his valor and leadership. The historical significance of the place added a layer of reverence to our pilgrimage. A short distance away was the Kashibai Bajirao temple, which we visited by 11:30 AM. This temple, dedicated to lord Shiva made by Kashibai Bajirao Peshwa, stands as a symbol of their enduring love and the cultural heritage of the Maratha Empire.

Bajirao Peshwa Samadhi

Shiva Temple by Kashibai Bajirao Peshwa

Our journey continued towards Shahada at 11:40 AM, where we had a humble lunch of curd at a petrol pump. The simplicity of the meal reminded us of the ascetic lifestyle often associated with pilgrimages. This simple repast, in the midst of our spiritual journey, was a humbling experience that grounded us in the essence of the pilgrimage - humility and devotion.

In Shahada, we explored the Jain caves, marveling at the ancient architecture and serene ambiance. These caves, dating back to the early centuries of the Common Era, are a testament to the rich Jain heritage in the region. The intricate carvings and sculptures inside the caves reflect the devotion and artistic excellence of the Jain community. Each cave houses statues of Tirthankaras, providing a peaceful environment for meditation and reflection. As the photography was restricted we were not able to capture any any photo or videos.

From there, we moved to Sendhva Fort, soaking in its historical grandeur. This fort, with its imposing walls and ancient structures, stands as a testament to the region's rich history and strategic significance during various dynasties. The fort has witnessed numerous battles and has been a seat of power for many rulers. Exploring its ruins, we could almost hear the echoes of the past and feel the vibrant history embedded in its stones.

Our day’s journey concluded at Vimaleshwar at 11:00 PM, where we also had our dinner and spent the night. The Dinner was prepared by us as there were no hotels available. We enjoyed the process of making the dinner. The Vimaleshwar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is known for its tranquil surroundings and spiritual ambiance. After a long day of travel and exploration, the serene environment of the temple provided the perfect setting for reflection and prayer. Dinner at Vimaleshwar was simple yet fulfilling, in keeping with the spirit of the pilgrimage. The night was spent in contemplation and gratitude for the day's experiences, as we prepared ourselves for the journey ahead.

Day 3: 6th January 2023

We started early without breakfast, eager to continue our spiritual odyssey. By 12:30 AM, we were at the Vamaleshwar jetty, preparing for a serene boat ride on the Narmada. Vamaleshwar is a small, serene town known for its religious significance and tranquil environment. In Vamaleshwar, we encountered a vibrant scene with people of all age groups, especially senior citizens, many of whom had traveled from remote areas across India. They were singing, dancing, and enjoying the moment despite the harsh sun and soaring temperatures. The traditional songs and dances added a festive atmosphere, uplifting our spirits amidst the challenging conditions.

The boats could only enter the Vamaleshwar Creek during high tides, and we witnessed the rising water levels from low tide to high tide. The wait of 4 to 5 hours under the harsh sun, with no shade on the barren land surrounding the makeshift jetty, tested our patience. However, as the high tide began and the boats approached, a sense of relief washed over everyone's faces.

Devotee Dancing

Vamaleshwar Jetty

The boat ride across the Narmada was a memorable experience, albeit challenging. Crossing the river, which eventually flows into the Arabian Sea, brought us into contact with breezy winds and occasionally harsh weather conditions. The climate was noticeably cold, and the ferry-like boats exposed us to splashing waves that left us wet and shivering. Despite these challenges, the journey offered a unique perspective of the river's grandeur and the resilience of those who depend on it for their livelihoods.

Our journey continued to Mithi Talai, whereby 5:15 PM, we enjoyed an evening breakfast of vatana khichadi. The simplicity and warmth of the meal amidst the tranquil setting were truly nourishing. Vatana khichadi, a traditional dish made from peas and rice, served as a savior for us after a morning spent on an empty stomach. The hot khichdi felt like a taste of heaven, replenishing our energy and lifting our spirits after a day of physical and spiritual exertion.

Dinner that night was on the Ahmedabad highway at Darshan Hotel at 8:15 PM, providing a brief respite before continuing towards Garudeshwar. The hearty meal at Darshan Hotel rejuvenated our bodies and minds, preparing us for the final leg of the day's journey.

By 9:00 PM, we reached Garudeshwar and stayed at the Tembe Maharaj Ashram, a place that epitomized spiritual solace and tranquility. Garudeshwar, nestled along the banks of the Narmada, holds great historical and spiritual significance. The ashram, dedicated to Swami Vasudevanand Saraswati, provided us with a serene environment to reflect on our journey and connect with the divine. Garudeshwar is revered for its association with Swami Vasudevanand Saraswati, a saint of the Dattatreya tradition who attained enlightenment here. The ashram established in his honor continues to be a center for spiritual learning and meditation. Pilgrims visiting Garudeshwar often partake in the spiritual practices and rituals that are regularly conducted at the ashram

This marked the end of our first three days on the sacred Narmada Parikrama, each moment rich with spiritual and historical significance, setting the tone for the days to follow. Stay tuned for the next part of our journey "Narmada Parikrama: Traversing the Divine Path" as we continue to delve deeper into the divine path and uncover more stories and experiences.